Whats the asking price?

 

asking price is $4990 it also has stage 1 upgrade mikuni carb and bps exhaust

 

I was just down at gator tail in Louisiana last weekend. They showed me 2 different motors that had over 1500 hrs on them

 

With proper maintenance, I've seen Briggs engines on Rider Mowers go thousands of hrs. The drive would be the weakest link. I'd check belt, clutch and drive bearings. And any associated Aluminum castings for cracks. Those parts take the worst of the beating that mudmotors have to live with. Price is about right if it has been maintained properly. If seller would allow it I'd do aleak down test, to assure valve train is okay. And if it was a non CDI motor if the governor is still functional.

 

^^^^this. Also I'd check over the brake caliper for the reverse. Not sure how it actually works but I know there's brake fluid u gotta change every X amount of hours. I've got a mud buddy 7000 that I detuned to 5500. It has 176 hours on it. I just replaced the rear crankcase seal on it this weekend. That's the most major thing I've done to it. Keep up with the regular maintenance and I think ull be fine. After all, it's just a glorified lawn mower engine!lol good luck with it if u decide to get it!

 

Also if it's a non CDI motor and it has a mikuni carb it'll have a rev limiter. Pry a 4350 rpm one. If it's CDI it won't have one. The coils will rev limit it.

 

If the builder chose to hook up the electronic one in the Carb kit. Some guys leave mechanical govenor on motor so they can run rpm higher. I've seen them change out govenor springs and if that wasn't enough rpm, they would tywrap the spring on the govenor.

 

If it has been serviced and maintained well, it should run 1000's of hours. Just think how many 70's Briggs n Stratton motors are still crankin on old push mowers and rider snappers!!! Its a little different use and prolly a little tougher on them, but a couple 1000 hours shouldn't be out of line

 

Stealing a thread here, but I got a 30 hp long tail this winter, with mods. I was doing 3500 rmp's and upper 20s to low 30s mph. 3500 rpm seems low, is there still more motor???

 

Stealing a thread here, but I got a 30 hp long tail this winter, with mods. I was doing 3500 rmp's and upper 20s to low 30s mph. 3500 rpm seems low, is there still more motor???

Are you on the govenor at 3500RPM? If so ,you may be able to turn up govenor, or tyrap the spring. May have to much pitch on your prop if your not on govenor. Motor should be able to pull 4000 going smaller pitch on prop by 2" should get you there. And might pick up 1-2 mph. If you tywrap the governor watch you RPM close. I'm assuming the rpm and mph are with a lite load.

 

Yeah, 30 was a very light load, mid 20s with 3 guys in the boat. I think there is a rev limiter because the tack stopped at 3500 rmp with 3 guys in the boat, and with 1 person. The motor doesn't sound like its running wide open.

 

Yeah, 30 was a very light load, mid 20s with 3 guys in the boat. I think there is a rev limiter because the tack stopped at 3500 rmp with 3 guys in the boat, and with 1 person. The motor doesn't sound like its running wide open.

I'd check carb to make sure butter fly is wide open cable may have stretched. I'd also check valve adjustment and spark plugs. Still sounds like to much prop or a bad tach. I can see 3500 with load but running lite you should be at 3800-4000. Try tywraping governor spring, and nail the throttle out of water to see if rpm goes above 4000. That will tell us if tach is working and if there is a governor issue.

 

thanks for the help guys, compression and leak down test were already done and checked out good