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quackalakin

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a black lab and hes a great retriever, but he just doesnt seem to want to stay still when ducks come in. He stays plenty still when there flying around us but if theres a bunch circling us and a couple decide to land before the others he tends to take off after them. Or if its to early to shoot and we have some land in the deeks. How do I stop this? Is tieing him up my only option? Im afraid hes gonna get shot one of these days if he keeps taking off to early.
 
shock collar, collar condition the dog and make sure to zap him when he breaks. Also, if you can call him back before he retreives the duck/goose that will have an impact on the dog much more than any shocking. Don't be afraid to put the gun down for a flock or two and concentrate on the dog. All dogs will break at one point in time, I know mine is bad at it but mine is once the guns go off so it doesn't ruin the hunt but still is a safety issue that needs resolved.
 
Fowlfever hit the nail on the head.....forget your gun and concentrate only on the dog.....have buddies do the shooting. To have a steady dog you must maintain high standards, and these standards need to be consistent in the yard, as well at the blind. You can really form the foundation of steadiness in the yard. Sit means sit!!! Some trainers teach "place." Start off using a short check cord. Command sit.....have helper throw bumper......increase difficulty over a month or so. Introduce gun shot, pigeons, then pigeons at very short ranges. The dog will figure it out. If he sits, he will be rewarded with a retrieve. Then just transfer to the blind. You need to watch the dog every minute and insist on compliance. It shouldn't be difficult at this point if you did your yard work correctly.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
He is collar conditioned, but I didnt know if that would ruin his erge to go retrieve the ducks. Ill have to try the just letting my buddies shoot while I sit one morning with out my gun and work on my dog. Thanks
 
Have you taught your dog place yet (or Kennel)? Have you gone through FF? You need to teach him steadiness to command. Make sure he stays in the spot until you tell him to go. Basically you want to tempt him with whatever you can to make him want to get up, and then correct him when he does so.

First things first, you need a dedicated location for him to sit or whoa at while you are tempting him. A raised platform works best because it is easier to correct him when he jumps off. Have him "place" on it and then begin the tempting. Correct him every time he comes off without your say so. Start with movement, toys, food, gun shots, whatever you think might make him move. If he still doesn't move then this is how I finish the training:

I don't know where you live, but I live in the country so I don't have to worry about neighbors looking at me funny, btw. I took an old broom handle and drilled a hole in one end. Then I tied about 6 feet of clothesline rope through the hole. I tie the free end of the rope to both feet on a pigeon. I place my dog, then I let the pigeon freak out in front of him. If he breaks I pull the pigeon to me, correct him and do it all over again.
 
He is collar conditioned, but I didnt know if that would ruin his erge to go retrieve the ducks. Ill have to try the just letting my buddies shoot while I sit one morning with out my gun and work on my dog. Thanks
I view steadying as a process. The first tool to use is a check cord....then no check cord....if all does not go well, back to the check cord. As far as the shock collar is concerned, I will reinforce for not complying to "sit". This will NOT confuse the dog any (as long as the dog has been cc to sit)
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Have you taught your dog place yet (or Kennel)? Have you gone through FF? You need to teach him steadiness to command. Make sure he stays in the spot until you tell him to go. Basically you want to tempt him with whatever you can to make him want to get up, and then correct him when he does so.

First things first, you need a dedicated location for him to sit or whoa at while you are tempting him. A raised platform works best because it is easier to correct him when he jumps off. Have him "place" on it and then begin the tempting. Correct him every time he comes off without your say so. Start with movement, toys, food, gun shots, whatever you think might make him move. If he still doesn't move then this is how I finish the training:

I don't know where you live, but I live in the country so I don't have to worry about neighbors looking at me funny, btw. I took an old broom handle and drilled a hole in one end. Then I tied about 6 feet of clothesline rope through the hole. I tie the free end of the rope to both feet on a pigeon. I place my dog, then I let the pigeon freak out in front of him. If he breaks I pull the pigeon to me, correct him and do it all over again.
Yea I have taught him place, heal, stay, back etc and he does them all great when we are hunting or at home. Its just when those darn ducks that have a chance to land is when his brain switches to not listen mode. If they dont have a chance to land hes stays till shots are fired which pry needs addressed to. He does know how to kennel in the back of my truck into his kennel if that what you mean but he doest have a kennel outside at our home because the old lady would kill me if he ever had to stay outside
 
If he knows "kennel," it should be easy to get him to stay in a dog blind. If you need some help get ahold of me. We should be able to get him trained to stay in there in one session, and it won't take a lot of tuning up for him to remember it.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
If he knows "kennel," it should be easy to get him to stay in a dog blind. If you need some help get ahold of me. We should be able to get him trained to stay in there in one session, and it won't take a lot of tuning up for him to remember it.
Thats one thing I have never tried, a dog blind because its never really needed where we hunt, but Ill have to see if I cant get him trained up on that this summer
 
Thats one thing I have never tried, a dog blind because its never really needed where we hunt, but Ill have to see if I cant get him trained up on that this summer
I never really believed in them until I hunted over a really hard charging chocolate female this year out in Kansas. Great dog, but she had so much drive she couldn't sit still. It only took one time of her bolting out of that blind for her to not even think about doing it again.
 
He rides to cr with me all the time, ill let you know when were down there.
Alright. I am working a 17 hour day today, but I should be free all day tomorrow if you want to give me a ring.
 
Yea I have taught him place, heal, stay, back etc and he does them all great when we are hunting or at home. Its just when those darn ducks that have a chance to land is when his brain switches to not listen mode. If they dont have a chance to land hes stays till shots are fired which pry needs addressed to. He does know how to kennel in the back of my truck into his kennel if that what you mean but he doest have a kennel outside at our home because the old lady would kill me if he ever had to stay outside
A couple of my friends use Kennel anytime they want the dog to go to a location and stay. I use kennel when I want mine to go in something but place when I want him to find a spot and stay there.

You need to readdress the place/stay command. The point I was trying to make was to find something around the house that will replicate the behavior when hunting. For my dog Jasper, that thing is live flopping birds. He can't stand to not have them in his mouth. So for me, the pigeon trick works. If you know your dog, then you should know something that might trip his trigger like that outside of a hunting situation meaning that you can replicate the same behavior at home. Train, train, train until he stops doing it. He'll get the hint after a while that you will eventually let him go, he just needs to be patient and wait for you to tell him.
 
17 hour day just today? Must be nice ive worked that the last 3 days :)
Yep. All OT today too. They just called me for 2-10 again tomorrow, but I can't take it because we're throwing my little girl a baseball party. I have worked 40 hours of OT in the last 2 weeks and 32 of those were this week alone.
 
Yep. All OT today too. They just called me for 2-10 again tomorrow, but I can't take it because we're throwing my little girl a birthday party. I have worked 40 hours of OT in the last 2 weeks and 32 of those were this week alone.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Yep. All OT today too. They just called me for 2-10 again tomorrow, but I can't take it because we're throwing my little girl a baseball party. I have worked 40 hours of OT in the last 2 weeks and 32 of those were this week alone.
Member when you were kid, not a care in the world, not a bill to pay. Thats the place I go back to when I have a sun up to sun down work week.
 
Member when you were kid, not a care in the world, not a bill to pay. Thats the place I go back to when I have a sun up to sun down work week.
Completely off subject but i just go to the bar after a week like that! In all honesty, it sounds like you're on the right track with you dog. If you apply some of the advice the others have mentioned along with time and patience training in the off season I think you'll be much happier this upcoming hunting season
 
My old dog was a breaking b!tch and I ended up steaking her to a short, short lead. I did that most of the season before she figured it out. That being said, I always had to watch her, sometimes she just couldn't control herself.
 
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