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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
While hunting the river, I noticed that my decoys would face the opposite direction that I wanted them to. With the wind one direction, and the current the other, they would face against the wind instead of into the wind like I wanted. Normally in a marsh, or area without current, the decoys will face into the wind if you have the line tied to the front of the keel. To give my spread a more natural look, I tie a few weights to the back of the keel so they all dont face one direction. I wanted/needed to have the line off of the rear of the keel for the river, and the front for the marsh. I don't care to re-tie 30 goose floaters everytime I switch where I hunt. So, what I did was buy several small D-ring clips from Wally. They are .96 for two of them. I cleared of the shelf and got 22 clips. Got home to find they weren't big enough to fit in the rear of the keel. I drilled another hole in the keel to allow the clip to fit. Now, I can rig the decoy for any situation I run into. If I want it rigged to the rear for the river, I simply silde the line through the clip keeping the line at the back of the keel. If it's the marsh, leave it on the front. This was a very cheap and easy way to get this done, and cost me around 12 bucks. Just thought I would share. Huff

The pics show the original hole, the one I drilled with the clip going through
 

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Thanks for the post.

I started to do the same things this year for more variety in my spread in the marsh. Didn't think of the ****** though. So I drilled and retied half of my spread. This way looks much easier and more flexible, giving the option of either front or back. I'll be doing this next season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I put the keel grabber weights on my duck floaters this year, and will do the same for the goose floaters next year. When I do, I will make my lines a bit longer to make up for the amount of line lost by taking it to the rear..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Why not just rig them all in the back, and if you want a front tie, just roll a half hitch over the line grabber on the front of the keel?
I tried that, the current would pull them off. Time wise this way is a heck of a lot quicker. Again, they are rigged for however the water wants to turn them, and I dont have to tie or untie a half hitch everytime I go out.
 

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Not sure what you run for weights, but with a clip on the back I would think you would not need a ace/keel grabber or flexi lead type weight. You could run about anything, a mushroom or whatever you have just wrap the line and tie the weight on near the clip and clip it into place.

Cheaper than Ace at 40-50 a doz.

Might have to try this
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I use the Avery keel grabbers 4 oz for my duck floaters. For the geese, I'll use 7 oz which usually run 20 bucks a dozen when they are on sale. They are really slick and makes pick up quick. I hate bending the weights around the keel. The keel grabbers stay put, and don't fall off. No more weights hitting the dekes or getting tangled. Well worth the money to me.
 
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