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Old 03-20-2017, 11:25 AM   #1
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Default Texas rigging geese





Does anyone use an adjustable length system for Texas rigging? I'm going to convert my spread of 4 dozen goose floaters to Texas rigs. The only problem is I want them all rigged the same and I have a couple farm ponds and sections of the river that I need 10 or more feet of decoy line. Any ideas on how to accomplish this? I'd prefer to stay away from clips and extension lines but if there's no other way I guess that's what I'd have to do.
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:13 PM   #2
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Default Re: Texas rigging geese





I tried two different things to accomplish what you want. the first method was to use strap weights and drill a hole in the end opposite from the decoy line end. I then had lines made up with another strap weight, 10 ft plus of line and a large snap swivel that I would hook on the end of the original strap weight. this method worked better than the following method which was my first attempt. the first attempt; I put a large snap swivel about 6" below the decoy and would unsnap the 5 or 6 ft line and switch it out for the long line. that was double work and a pain. going to the first method was quicker. there is another method that a buddy of mine tried. it is a plastic box with turn handle that you mounted to the bottom of the keel. it would hold up to 40 ft of line. you could reel out whatever you wanted I thought they were clunky and never tried any of them. he had a dozen decoys rigged that way for the deep water tail.

if you come up with something better; let us know
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:34 PM   #3
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Default Re: Texas rigging geese

I run 12' on all my geese and make all my own rigs. Instead of using a swivel snap I run the rig straight thru the hole in the keel, put a double knot at the end of the line with a depth adjuster and let the line free flow thru the keel. I crimp a loop into the weighted end of the rig. Seems to help keep it a bit more tangle free when they all get pitched into the boat and I can set the loop at a certain depth for carrying in and out.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: Texas rigging geese

What I'm kinda planning on doing is running 1/16 coated cable thru the decoy keel with a loop at both ends and a snare lock on the bottom side of the egg sinker. I haven't played with it but I'm hoping the snare lock will lock with the weight of the sinker and I'd be able to quickly adjust the length for the given depth and the cable would just lay on bottom out of the way of me and the pup.

My concerns are that the lock will chew up the coated cable, that the coating will be too gummy to allow the lock to slide up and down for depth adjustments, or that the egg sinker won't slide properly on the PVC coated cable.

Has anyone used the coated cable with a sliding egg vs fixed egg sinker?
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:33 AM   #5
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Default Re: Texas rigging geese

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What I'm kinda planning on doing is running 1/16 coated cable thru the decoy keel with a loop at both ends and a snare lock on the bottom side of the egg sinker. I haven't played with it but I'm hoping the snare lock will lock with the weight of the sinker and I'd be able to quickly adjust the length for the given depth and the cable would just lay on bottom out of the way of me and the pup.

My concerns are that the lock will chew up the coated cable, that the coating will be too gummy to allow the lock to slide up and down for depth adjustments, or that the egg sinker won't slide properly on the PVC coated cable.

Has anyone used the coated cable with a sliding egg vs fixed egg sinker?
A buddy and I switched to coated cable last year with fixed weight for longevity and less memory than mono. I can't imagine a sliding egg weight would work well at all. You'd spend a lot of time chasing decoys.

For your situation and needing the longer lines as much as I'd hate to do it, you're better off with swivels and swapping short lines for long lines when needed.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:39 AM   #6
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Default Re: Texas rigging geese

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What I'm kinda planning on doing is running 1/16 coated cable thru the decoy keel with a loop at both ends and a snare lock on the bottom side of the egg sinker. I haven't played with it but I'm hoping the snare lock will lock with the weight of the sinker and I'd be able to quickly adjust the length for the given depth and the cable would just lay on bottom out of the way of me and the pup.

My concerns are that the lock will chew up the coated cable, that the coating will be too gummy to allow the lock to slide up and down for depth adjustments, or that the egg sinker won't slide properly on the PVC coated cable.

Has anyone used the coated cable with a sliding egg vs fixed egg sinker?
Sounds like a pretty solid theory. May as well make up one or two and play around with them. Got plenty of time before season to adjust anything you need to. The only issue can see with the loops on both ends is the free end tended to get tangled because of the crimp. The edges were just enough to catch. Hence the reason I went with a knot. We had one hunt where we threw around 50 floaters in the boat at the end. Didn't wrap a single one of mine and they were virtually tangle free when we unpacked. Just use the depth adjuster to lock the weight against the keep and let the rest hang wherever. But I do like your idea. Sounds like it'll help keep the extra line from being exposed.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:53 PM   #7
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Default Re: Texas rigging geese

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A buddy and I switched to coated cable last year with fixed weight for longevity and less memory than mono. I can't imagine a sliding egg weight would work well at all. You'd spend a lot of time chasing decoys.

For your situation and needing the longer lines as much as I'd hate to do it, you're better off with swivels and swapping short lines for long lines when needed.
I agree I'd do a snap and make longer lines for when you need em. With cable just coil em up and stash em away for the next time ya need shorties. I also concur with the non sliding weight. Honestly it's a pain, as I have some rig em rights, but the other 5-6 dozen I made myself. Unfortunately I got in too soon and use mono instead of coated cable. I do one loop and a clamp and the smash the sinker down on the line with a BFH. Then it just slides thru and all you do is pick up the deke by the head and grab the loop at the keel. No wet hands! But I also wish I had started using a snap swivel so I could change lengths...Next go round!
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